Domaine de Locguénolé & Spa ★★★★ - Relais & Châteaux

From the moment we arrive, we fall under its nostalgic spell… infused with the grandeur of a time gone by. An expansive park, its 20 hectares lined with ancient trees, and poised on an immaculate carpet of lawn in the middle of it all, stands the 19th-century château alongside an elegant 18th-century manor house in the traditional stone-blocked, steep-roofed Breton style. Into these illustrious surroundings we are welcomed as guests of honour, with warmth and professionalism.

We are shepherded to our room under the eaves of the manor house, while others can be found in the château itself. I held my breath as the door opened, swinging back to reveal a gorgeous hideaway with beautiful, wide wooden beams straddling the steeply slanted ceiling. It's just what I was hoping for. Once settled, we make the short stroll across to the main château and enjoy its rooms bursting with history. The authentic 18th-century furnishings and period wooden floors and fixtures are utterly charming. Now here's a true castle, one that won't diminish as I age...

Noticing that the shadows outside are stretching ever further across the lawn, we decide to make the most of the day's last rays of sunshine and take a stroll in the immense wooded park. Meadow-like flowerbeds, venerable trees, a pool and carefully considered places to stop and enjoy the beauty of our surroundings... this is what makes the Domaine de Locguénolé so pleasant and relaxing. We walk down the carpet of green grass that leads out from the château and down to a sweeping bend of the River Blavet – a delightful place to watch the sun go down. As night falls, my stomach begins to grumble and I remember that somewhere inside is an exquisite restaurant.

Chef Yann Maget now guides us through a refined culinary experience in an elegant room with natural stone walls warmed by a huge woven tapestry. Always at home by the sea, I browse the langoustines, sea bass, sole and sea bream, while my other half takes his pick of beef and lamb, veal sweetbreads and squab!

Some places, like the Domaine de Locguénolé, are a true refuge, combining tradition, comfort and wonderful food with something more elusive, less tangible; a certain childlike nostalgia that makes us feel instantly at home.