Lisboa Plaza - Lisbon Heritage Collection ★★★★ SUP

In my mind Lisbon was a mysterious and capricious city, a tangle of times gone by and the present day, where the old quarters of Alfama and Chiado provide a striking counterpoint to the newer buildings. Little did I know that tucked away inside the city’s age-old streets, I'd find a whimsical treasure that blends its historic charm with a splash of modernity for slightly surreal yet delightful results.

I had been looking for a hotel that would bring together the best of Lisbon's antiquated appeal and classic contemporary touches to ensure my stay would be a comfortable one. I was looking for an exclusive destination in a central location, yet somewhere that was quiet enough to ensure a good night's sleep. The Hotel Lisboa Plaza seemed to tick all of my boxes. Managed and maintained today by a Portuguese family that has kept the original architect's dream alive, the hotel makes a quirky alternative to the large international chains, offering a more nuanced and friendly experience. Boasting a prime location on the capital's most cosmopolitan thoroughfare, the Avenida da Liberdade, yet still somewhat hidden away on a quiet side street, the Hotel Lisboa is a haven of calm in the middle of the city.

Inside, the décor by the Graça Viterbo design agency preserves the charm and warmth of an old-time private hotel. Dark wood, tapestries, heavy curtains, bedspreads and stamped cushions carry me through time to a bygone age of luxury, but they do so deliberately, knowingly. As for modern comforts, nothing is lacking. The room is equipped with all the modern touches you'd expect of a four-star hotel: satellite TV, flat screen, DVD/CD player, Wi-Fi...

This is a nostalgic place where I almost forget that just outside, steps away, the city of Lisbon awaits. During the day, its intimate winding streets mingle together into a labyrinth in which I love to lose myself. But at night the fashionable neighbourhoods, from the historic city centre to the revamped docks, come to life to the delight of this night owl. Lisbon is home to an effervescing nightscape that I watched one night from the hotel's terrace, as the lights of the city played on the gentle Tagus...