Palais El Miria

You might find you have to pinch yourself. The hotel’s filigreed and riveted wooden doors open onto a wide exotic garden that stretches for almost 3,000 square metres. The landscapers have paid their respects to the local vegetation and chosen only plants found in the region to compose this luscious Eden. Before your eye catches on the sweeping form of a flower or the undulating movement of the palm fronds in the breeze, it’s the generous central pool that attracts our admiration. Here, where the old river Miria once flowed, a huge pool now stretches out, surrounded by recliners and parasols, and even a romantic canopied daybed where I can already imagine sprawling out to finish a good book.

Let’s take a tour of the Palace, accessed through the arched outdoor walkway, draped in flowing curtains. The Palace itself is shaped around a central patio with a fountain at its heart in the traditional style of Moroccan villas. The shared spaces are worthy of an art gallery, such is the success of the beautifully-done arabesque décor. No surprises, then, that our bedroom is just as charming.

Warm colours, sculpted wooden wardrobes, antiques, lush carpets… the best local artwork has been put to work, elevating the ten rooms of the Palais El Miria. We take a moment to contemplate the complex details carved by hand, including finely worked mirrors, traditional lanterns diffusing soft light and pleasingly tasteful handicrafts. There are more arches to come, as an open doorway leads to a bathroom covered in smooth tadelakt, the traditional lime coating of North African riads and bath houses. Yet neither has comfort fallen victim to the demands of beauty. It is everywhere from the rich quality of the bed linens to the fittings (television and free Wi-Fi). Most rooms open out onto a large patio that blends into the garden and lends them an indoors-outdoors feel that has always been an indispensable feature of Moroccan architecture.

So how is it that we feel so at home so soon in this exotic landscape? It must be because of the homely welcome – it’s as if we’re visiting close friends whose only wish is to see to our every whim. The warmth of the welcome and the array of services are exemplary. Personalised service is assured by the small number of rooms. It’s an exclusive pleasure for a lucky few.

The calm that prevails throughout the hotel cocoons us from the tumult of Marrakesh but without dulling its sensations. The ritual pleasures of a traditional steam bath can be enjoyed in the palace spa. Exfoliation and relaxation in the steam rooms or under the hydromassage jets are followed up with a massage for dessert… which one shall I choose first? Relaxing, invigorating, sports, firming, anti-stress or lymphatic? We gave ourselves over to expert hands and a feeling of deep wellbeing.

Later, stomachs rumbling, we discover why some say the real beauty of Morocco is its food. Completely relaxed, almost in a stupor, we savour a melt-in-the-mouth couscous that has to be tried to be believed, in the elegant surroundings of the palace restaurant. With tagines, shish kebabs and salads as well as the appetising breakfast buffet, it’s all succulent and delicious. We chose to enjoy breakfast in the garden, with the flavours heightened by the sweet morning air.

Excursions to Berber villages and hikes into the desert can, and should, be organised. For now, the palace shuttle awaits to carry us away to Marrakesh along with a local guide with a seemingly endless store of anecdotes and interesting titbits. But do we really have to leave? Maybe after just one more glass of tea…