Riad Dar Amanza

Marrakech harbours a world of mystery that soaks into the lively souks, the bustling medinas, and along the narrow, winding, stall-lined streets. It’s definitely not difficult to fall in love with the city, with its bright bursts of colour, the sumptuous textures, and the ancient culture. Domed mosques rise up out of flag-stone floors, patterned textiles adorn the squares, and the distinctive yodels of snake-charmers form an authentic soundtrack. The likes of The Rolling Stones and Yves Saint Laurent found inspiration in Marrakech and I was looking forward to making a foray in their footsteps.

For an original flavour of the city, I booked into the Riad Dar Amanza, a secret spot of paradise just minutes from the main bustle of Jemaa El Fna. It boats a typical Moroccan design complete with rustic walls and a huge, heavy door that cracked open to reveal Abdou, the Dar Amanza butler who grew up in the house. His warm smile and friendly introduction felt like he was inviting me into his home and, in a way, I guess he was. But as with most things in Marrakech, things kicked off in a traditional manner with mint tea and sweets served on the terracotta patio by the pool.

I immediately felt at ease, my troubles floating away on the warm Moroccan air. And then Abdou showed me to my room and I fell in love with Marrakech all over again. Sumptuous cotton bedding was draped over a thick, wooden bedframe, there were flagstone floors, plush curtains and cushions in a multitude of vibrant golds, oranges, and reds, and dark, engraved furniture. The bathroom was equally as exotic, with handcrafted tiled surfaces and hanging lanterns.

As well as harking back to traditional Moroccan ways, the Dar Amanza has a foot well and truly in the 21st century too, with a large plasma screen, WiFi, and a DVD player. This was all well and good, but watching TV was the last thing on my mind. Instead, I padded up to the riad’s roof which has been converted into a peaceful wellness area surrounded by lush greenery and scented orange trees. There, I indulged in a massage overlooking the medina and watched as the sun dipped below the horizon.

As night fell, the riad seemed to sparkle into life with the warm glow of coloured-glass lanterns casting a cosy ambiance throughout the halls. In the restaurant, Mariam, the housekeeper and cook, had set me a table at which I sampled traditional Moroccan meal made with local, skilled hands. Another well-received comfort that made me feel like I could live in the riad forever.

Over the next few days, I ventured out into the medina, wandering the winding streets with old wizened men and well-dressed women. I dipped into souks, browsing through silver trinkets and thumbing through pashmina scarfs in every colour of the rainbow, I sipped mint tea from curb-side cafés and watched as life unfolded, quick-speed, around me. Then, as darkness swathed the city again, I’d head back to the peace and quiet of the Dar Amanza and retreat to the comfort and hospitality that Marrakech for which is so well known.