Hôtel Mercure Villeneuve sur Lot Moulin de Madame ★★★★

In Villeneuve-sur- Lot, a small medieval village on the banks of the River Lot in Lot & Garonne, sits the four star Moulin de Madame. The walls of an 18th century mill, once the largest and most important in the whole department, house part of this elegant four star hotel which reigns majestically over the River Lot. The whole scene conjures up a picture of idyllic bucolic contentment, which when paired with luxurious accommodation, a gastronomic restaurant and Spa is exactly what’s needed for a restorative break.

The interiors are in a Louis XVI Regency style without being too heavy or clichéd. Marble fireplaces and white furniture accented with soft blues and greys are lifted with the light from delicate chandeliers. The 30 bedrooms are spread over a series of small houses along the river bank; ours was a comfortable and refined haven of white furniture, and fabrics in shades of olive and cream. The bed with its fluffy quilt beckons you to sink into it while the heavy drapes shelter your dream-filled nights. The bathrooms have either an Italian shower or a freestanding bath. This old-fashioned romance doesn’t mean they’re not fully equipped with the latest technological comforts though. You can enjoy Wi-Fi, satellite TV with movies on demand, a mini bar and your own Nespresso coffee machine, the latter being perfect for a relaxing cuppa on your private terrace or to perk you up first thing in the morning, when you’re propped up against your comfortable pillows and looking forward to breakfast. If you don’t manage to get up in time to enjoy the continental spread on the terrace or the bar, then you can enjoy it in your room up until noon...

If you do sleep in that late though, you’ll miss the market held in the village of Villeneuve-sur-Lot every Tuesday and Saturday morning. Head down to the covered Market Hall just down from the Place Lafayette on the river. Afterwards, nibbling a local speciality like some Agen prunes or a pork pie, wander down the Rue Sainte Catherine behind Place Lafayette and admire the wonderful Eglise Sainte Catherine which has a stained glass window from the 13th century church that previously stood on the same spot. South of Villeneuve is tiny medieval Pujols, one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. Le Château de Bonaguil, and Agen, with its medieval centre are both just 45 minutes away. If you’re more of a lover of the outdoors than a history buff then, weather depending, there are a range of activities like hiking, cycling, horse-riding or kayaking on your doorstep.

Come late afternoon, if I wasn’t to be found on the terrace with a Nespresso in my hand, letting my thoughts drift with the water’s current, then I was in the Spa admiring yet another gorgeous view of the river. Work out in the gym – if you’re that way inclined – or treat yourself to an hour-long Aromassage using Decléor products that promises to relive you of any remaining muscle tension. Afterwards, enjoy a spell relaxing in the Jacuzzi. If you prefer your bubbles to come in a glass, then make your way to the bar and chose from the fine bubbles of Billecart-Salmon or Dom Perignon.

Follow that with dinner on the terrace of the restaurant l’Ecluse, overlooking the water. Enjoy an exquisite appetizer before sampling some seasonal local cuisine, cooked to perfection. Dishes like rack of lamb, or squid with turmeric and coconut milk, followed by a divine tiramisu. Add to this a sublime wine list, with commentary by a passionate and excited sommelier and you have the recipe for a perfect dinner, and a perfect break.