Quinta das Lágrimas ★★★★

For centuries, the Quinta da Lagrimas acted as a private retreat for Portuguese Kings and Emperors, providing them with an elegant, charming sanctuary tucked away in the beautiful surroundings of Coimbra. It was here that the legend of Prince Pedro and Ines de Castro played out, which means that today it is bathed in history and the stories of the people who have stayed there over the centuries. The legendary narratives give it soul and make you believe that your own story is just waiting to unfold.

Surrounded by 12 hectares of lush park, with ancient trees and vibrant botanical gardens, the palace manages to combine its fascinating heritage with modern day amenities designed to take you on a journey through time.

Depending on your historical preferences, you can hole up in the ancient palace where spacious suites are decked out in period furniture, intricate gilding, and dark woodwork. These rooms have seen many a royal face pass through, from the Duke of Wellington to King Miguel of Portugal, and they burst with the romantic flair of days-gone-by. I chose to rest my head in one of the ultra-modern spa rooms, with sleek whitewashed walls, colourful paintings, and contemporary furniture. The views were spectacular, taking in the thick carpet of Quinta’s forest and the patchwork landscape of Coimbra itself.
 
With grand designs sprawling out through the hotel, you’ll be struck with marvellous scenes around every twist and turn, from the exquisite library to the sumptuous Arcadas Restaurant, which prides itself on serving up a mouth-watering range of locally inspired dishes.

Time seemed to stand still during my trip, as I wandered through the colourful gardens and tried my hand at golf. In the warm afternoons, I’d slip into the spa and enjoy its indoor pool, sauna, and steam room. For dinner, I’d tuck into delicious fish dishes and nouveau treats served up by the innovative and creative kitchen team.

Coimbra itself was a delight to explore, too. Passing over the perimeter of the hotel, I’d find myself in the present day, immersed in a city that is both ancient and modern. Just moments from the Quinta das Lagrimas, I found architecture dating back hundreds of years, an endless supply of artistic treasures, and one of the world’s oldest universities. Everywhere you go, the elegant sound of traditional Fado music tickles at your ears, whilst high-end bars and cafes rub shoulders with age-old monuments. And, surrounding it all, there is the lush scenery of the Portuguese countryside, with rolling green hills and incredible views.

The Quinta das Lagrimas harbours hundreds of stories from the past, many of which have gained legendary status. Its move into the modern day, with luxury facilities and the modern décor of the spa room, has opened up a gap for newer narratives just waiting to be played out.