Domaine de la Bretesche ★★★★★

It is hard not to spout a few clichés when describing the Hotel de la Bretesche – peaceful, tranquil, beautiful, relaxing etc. – because it is almost a cliché itself, in the best way possible. It is a fairy tale castle, with tall, spindly towers rising out of a lake, immaculate floral gardens, the arches of a bridge reflecting in the water like a mirror, and outbuildings which maintain all the same character, forming a stone courtyard with an equally pristine garden. You can almost imagine Cinderella dancing with Prince Charming inside, or Rapunzel letting her hair out of one of those gorgeous towers. The picture is completed by 200 hectares of lush parkland, with dense woodland and exquisitely manicured lawns. This is the kind of château you usually only see in paintings or on postcards.

That is not to say, however, that it is not capable of surprising you. To enter the outbuildings of the château, which are home to the hotel, is to embark on a voyage of discovery – they have all the grand, elegant, homely comfort that you would expect from the outside, and plenty of added quirks to stand out from the crowd. To start, there is the décor. With a design including fabrics signed by prestigious names such as Rubelli, Kenzo, Manuel Canovas and Pierre Frey, the interior offers a subtly contemporary twist. Bold patterns and rich shades of gold and magenta dominate the walls and floor of the gourmet restaurant. Chic motifs may adorn the walls of your bathroom or the rug in your bedroom, without disturbing the traditional refinement. The furnishings and decorations are a mix of the old and the new, the antique and the eye-catching.

My room, resplendent in red and gold with striking decoration, offered me all the style and comfort I would have dreamed of. What’s more, the lake view was incredible. It certainly put me in that fairy tale mood every morning as I drew back my long, flowing curtains and gazed out at the scene in front of me. An ethereal mist hung eerily over the still water as the sun rose, with trees standing sentry all the way around the shore, and there was just a glimpse of the lovely château’s towers, rising like stalagmites from the surface of the lake. A quick ‘mirror, mirror on the wall…’ in the spacious bathroom, and it was straight down for breakfast.

While the breakfast here may be a more traditional affair – breads and cakes straight from the boulangerie, fresh fruit, the finest French produce etc. – the cuisine in general is another of the areas in which the Hotel de la Bretesche can surprise and delight you. Firstly, in the range of options. There is the airy, attractive Club Brasserie, offering seasonal produce prepared to perfection, with an outstanding view through the floor to ceiling windows. Meanwhile, inspired by the sea and accompanied by some of the finest vintage wines, Chef Ludovic Le Forestier’s gourmet cuisine at the Montaigu is fully deserving of its Michelin star. An audacious talent, his bold twists, imaginative flavours and creative presentation know no bounds.

To get you in the mood for either of these unforgettable experiences, there is the one-of-a-kind Bar des Ecuries. I have never seen anything quite like it – the old stables have been expertly renovated without losing their form or character, leaving you in no doubt as to the building’s history. Sat in one of the old stalls, enjoying the smell of leather and the authentic atmosphere with a glass of whiskey or a cocktail, you can really feel the hotel’s other-worldly charm and distinctive character like nowhere else.

There are various ways to go about recovering from the inevitable excesses of the hotel’s extraordinary culinary experience. For me, it was straight out to the golf course in the morning. Teeing off among hydrangeas and rhododendrons, strolling down the immaculately maintained fairways, weaving my way through the woods and enjoying unbeatable views of the château and lake, it was not hard to see why this course has been listed as one of the most beautiful in the world. Whether you opt for 9 holes or the full 18, every hole is pure golfing perfection.

Meanwhile, my wife had succumbed to the temptation of the Cour Carrée spa. As we sat in the courtyard one evening, under the shade of the century-old lime tree, she regaled me with details of her experience – of the blissful feeling of the infrared sauna, unique in France, of the soothing fragrances and calming colours, of the heavenly revitalisation of her ‘multi-sensory cocoon’ treatment…

Discussion moved on to how we would fill the following day. Would we continue discovering the hotel’s unique charm? We could lounge by the pool, play a game of tennis, or explore the grounds with a walk or bike ride. Or should we move further afield? If we could tear ourselves away, the delights of Brittany awaited. With rugged coastline, idyllic beaches, pretty villages and picturesque countryside, the surrounding area has almost as much to wow you as the hotel itself. Excitement here is not hard to find, whether you stay in or go out - you can be sure that a stay at the Hotel de la Bretesche, so magical and inventive, so full of character and tradition, will send you home with memories to last a life time.