Fitz Roy ★★★★★

I guess skiing could be seen as winter's silver lining. It certainly does the job of perking everyone up from the inevitable seasonal slump. Though the Val Thorens ski resort must be stunning at any time of year, when it’s covered with white powder it really comes into its own. The natural amphitheatre that surrounds it contains six glaciers - this is truly the domain of the elements. When the village was first masterminded, popular opinion was that it was a fool-hardy ambition, but what has been created is one of the most enviably situated resorts. Val Thorens has its fair share of top-class hotels and restaurants, like our destination, La Fitz Roy *****, but it has managed to stay 'down to earth' (despite being the exact opposite) and thus welcomes a clientele who are passionate about sport but not necessarily about the glitz that goes along with it. This is how we found it, via my sister's partner, his penchant for snow boots, and some insider knowledge.

La Fitz Roy cuts a handsome figure, like someone in a swish grey winter's coat. It's a modern building, but blends effortlessly into its environs. As soon as we entered we could perceive the convivial atmosphere, and we were wowed by its perfect blend of rustic chic décor. The hotel is large, with spacious communal areas and a renowned restaurant. We had requested rooms close to each other which was organised without any fuss by the cheerful staff. Our mountain-view room was a study in luxurious mountain-cabin cosiness. The bed had pure white linens and the thick carpet and curtains were in soft, neutral tones. Honey-coloured wood lined the wall around the bed and a greyish wood was used for the internal doors. Black and white photos depicting pine trees in the snow brought something of the magic of the outdoors into our room, as did the large French windows, letting in a sweeping Alpine view and leading out to a private balcony. The bathroom was stylish and modern, with small cream stone tiles, a striking square marble sink and luxurious amenities. We'd had the option of a bath or shower and we went for a bath; when else do you have the time to take a long soak?  

I did put on some skis a couple of times, mostly to prove to the others that I was going to make more bruises than happy memories, so they would stop goading me to join in. I was totally happy left alone, ensconced in a deep sofa by fire in the lounge, going for beautiful walks or making full use of the VeryChic discount in the spa, boasting a sauna, steam room and private treatments. But I loved to hear their skiing tales over lunch, seeing them fresh faced and windswept. Half-board meals marked our time together, and we enjoyed hearty breakfasts, delicious dinners and even a welcome drink and complimentary charcuterie, courtesy of VeryChic. The food here, like everything else at La Fitz Roy, is done with care, artistry, quality and flair.