Domaine de Villeray ★★★★

Just picture waking up in the morning to that feeling of the unexpected. No sound. Nothing but the silence tinged with the occasional whistle of a bird or the sweet tickling of the river. Beams of sunshine (ahh, even the French weather is on my side!) push through the blinds and cajole my eyes open. I’m met with the bedroom’s remarkable décor. I find myself in an extraordinary 16th century château. The broad fortified walls somehow work perfectly with the very 19th and 20th century furnishings. The effect is elegant, sober and refined and has flavours of Downton Abbey meets Marie Antoinette.

I climb out of an extremely comfortable bed and into a world suffused with history. I throw on my shoes and head to the romantic bay window to see what it has to offer. The countryside rolls under a wisp of morning mist while shadows and light play under the boughs of the distant trees. I can almost smell the green fragrance of the moss on the fringes of the woods… I head to the bathroom; it’s very modern and contrasts nicely with the period vibe of the bedroom. Less picturesque, perhaps, but a shade more rustic. I decide to treat myself to a luxurious bath. It goes without saying that everything I could want and more was on hand.

And I had always thought there was nothing glamorous about slipping into a dressing gown. I take it back immediately as I discover the estate’s Spa Pom. Tucked into the château’s outbuildings, I disappear gladly into a gorgeous world where wellbeing is the only thing that matters.

The neutral and natural tones of the wood-coloured interior breathe calm and serenity. A welcoming aura, soft lighting… in the spa’s intimate atmosphere it’s easy to feel at home. And what do you know; the spa’s star product is the humble apple. All the treatments are based on the fibre, pips, polyphenols, and stem cells of this Norman fruit, with its hydrating and anti-aging properties. They also have organic massage oils made from Reinette apple and green tea extract – it couldn’t have been more perfect. I faced the Cornelian dilemma alone. Turkish bath or sauna? Jacuzzi or four-poster bed for a relaxing siesta? I chose an intense and energising Balinese-style massage and surrender myself to the expert hands of the fabulous masseuse, who wriggled away all of my knots.

As evening falls I cosy up to the fireside in one of the château’s impressive sitting rooms followed by a sumptuous supper where the exquisite seasonal cuisine is matched with a lively and succulent wine...