Hotel de Paris Sanremo ★★★★

This part of the world has captivated visitors for hundreds of years. The literati of Europe, Shelley, Byron, D. H. Lawrence and more, all spent time along this gracefully curved coastline that links France's Côte d'Azur with Tuscany. Sandwiched between two places famed for their beauty, it's not surprising that the coast of Liguria has a wealth of natural charms. What is surprising is that it's so relatively unknown. We didn't mind, not one bit! Sanremo attracted regal European exiles during the 19th century and the colourful Russian Orthodox Church that stands in the centre of the town is a reminder of this. Right next door, acting as a buffer between its disapproving(?) eyes and the casino, is one of the town's first hotels and our destination, Hotel de Paris ****.

The hotel's grand façade is characteristically art nouveau and adorned by palm trees and colourful bursts of flowers. The lobby hints at the classical leitmotif of the hotel's décor, with antique furniture, original features and ornate trimmings. There was something aristocratic about the generously proportioned rooms, with their wooden panelled walls and sculptural stucco plaster. The welcoming staff made us felt right at home and the bellboy helped us with our 'we always bring too much' luggage. The hotel has just 28 en-suite rooms letting it retain that intimate and friendly ambience sometimes lost by larger establishments. Each floor is themed with a different colour: green, blue, pink, ochre and each room bears an imprint of an artist connected to the region. What colour and artist would you be?

We settled on blue, to mirror the sea. The room was totally breathtaking, we nearly hugged the bellboy when we saw it! With windows facing south and the sea, the light streamed in. Delicate floral patterned upholstery in white and blues created a flower-fairy sweetness. It was large and airy, with high ceilings and that kind of spacious, sturdy feeling they just don't make nowadays. The parquet flooring lent a warm honey tone to the space. There was a large wardrobe, dressing table and coffee table by the window, all antique pieces, beautifully carved and hand painted. The view from the terrace was of course spectacular, but unexpected was that we could see the sea from our shower too!

By now my sister was thanking me for using my persuasive tactics to get her to Sanremo, as I knew she would. After a walk along the marina ogling the yachts and taking lungs full of sweet air, thick with pine resin and aromatic herbs, we were ready to try some of the much fabled food produced by this region. Italy has many gastronomic micro-climates and we were keen to let our taste buds explore. The dining hall was very graceful, with white and curved lines predominating – round tables and curtains draping in elegant folds. Its top-floor location afforded mesmerising views, and we happily lingered over three delicious courses. Hotel de Paris is the place to stay to taste the old time luxury of this secret gem of Italy.