Hotel Sahrai ★★★★★

Fez, home to the oldest and largest medina in Morocco, stretches out in a whimsical maze of twisting, rambling routes that pass grand Mosques and covered bazaars bursting to the brim with aromatic spices, twinkling trinkets, and freshly brewed teas. Browse through stalls and taste samples, before heading back to the Hotel Sahrai, which sits above the medina itself.

If the medina was rustic and old, drawing heavy inspiration from an Arabic past, the Sahrai was the complete opposite. Imagined by French designer Christophe Pillet, the grand building is a paradigm of modern décor, white walls, and magnificent pillars, yet it still retains its roots in the ancient city of Fez, with traditional archways and hanging lanterns throughout. An afternoon getting lost in the crowds of the medina is perfectly counteracted with a trip to the in-house Cinq Mondes Spa. Here, relax with a selection of beauty treatments, massages, and Jacuzzis, surrounded by Pillet’s beautifully designed setting.

At dinner time, there’s a difficult choice to be made: to dine on the traditional Parisian cuisine in the Relais de Paris or experience the delightful Moroccan dishes at the Amaraz? The easy part comes after dinner, when it’s time to head up to the rooftop bar to watch the sun set over the emptying medina below. It is a thrilling experience to join the masses in the medina, and absorb the exotic smells, sights and sounds; but I was grateful to be able to return to the peaceful, elegant Sahrai when I wanted to escape the crowds. Fez is fun and full of character, and the spa, pool, immaculately designed restaurants and, of course, the calm and comfortable room at the Sahrai provide the perfect contrast.